Tag: Solo Female Travel

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How to use fear to your advantage

Does this image fill you with fear? What does it say to you?

It’s a photo taken in Bangladesh with complete strangers – men. These men were curious; wondering how I’d got there and why I was there – they were happy to have a photo with me. They were not there to hurt or attack me, they were just existing, in the same place I was, at the same time, surprised to see me…

Cycling 10,000kms throughout Asia as a woman alone raised many questions, the most common one being, “Aren’t you scared?!”

My response was always, “Of what…You?”

And the person would be horrified that I’d asked such a daft question as they were always only approaching with genuine interest, fascination and curiosity – they had no intention to cause me any harm.

The question was so open-ended, how could I possibly respond? Of course there are moments of fear, that’s an everyday reality. Fear pops up everywhere in the world whether you’ve got a random person who seems to be staring at you strangely at the bus stop or a car that drove past you that little bit too closely… What one person considers ‘scary’ will differ to the next person.

Some types of fear come from what we have experienced in the past, often centred around our own traumas and other fears will come from the stories we’ve heard from other people. Either way, it’s a defence response from our bodies to protect us from what we perceive as a threat.

That’s the key word there, perceive. Fear comes from the narrative that we are telling inside our own minds. That narrative is derived from what ‘evidence’ we choose to focus on to help us subconsciously determine the risk.

Many people think I’m crazy for camping or cycling alone as a woman but I like to challenge people on what they think I should be scared of exactly? Being attacked or raped by a malicious stranger is the most common origin of that question in this context. Well, let’s think about this… The vast majority of humans internationally are decent people – they want to help when they can and they certainly don’t want to hurt you. So what would the chances be that a psychopathic rapist would just happen to be in the exact remote place that I unexpectedly decided to camp at sunset? And that that person would know that I was female inside my tent? Unlikely.

Sometimes, feeling fearful can distract us from consciously assessing the risk of an action/event/experience and it can prevent us from taking part. Other times, it can prevent us from making dangerous or irresponsible decisions. As we continue to navigate life, the presence of fear will always have some impact on our choices – for some, fear spurs them on and other fear holds them back…

So when someone asks me, “Aren’t you scared?” I try to explain that fear of anything doesn’t serve as a barrier to me. And to be honest, I am not scared. I recognise moments of fear and use them to help me work through challenging situations whilst simultaneously working on myself, using fear to highlight where I need to do more shadow-work to become stronger and more resilient.

Just like all other emotions, we should not suppress fear but instead witness it and use it to understand ourselves better. With that, comes personal development and overall progress.

This is not an article to help you remove fear from your life, it’s about how to conquer using fear as a positive signal; to help you engage with yourself in a more challenging way and utilise fear as a drive for personal progress.

1. Radical Acceptance

What is coming up for me?

Plucking your rawest emotions from being held tightly inside you is your first step to emotional ownership. Drawing your most challenging feelings out allows you to acknowledge them, take responsibility for them and actively work through them. Whilst fear tends to be highlighted by inaction, guilt and shame may also come up following an emotionally driven action and can contribute to the development of fear later on. Rather than regretting what has or hasn’t happened, taking responsibility of what IS will be the only way to make effective progress as you give yourself the chance to un-work emotional blockages which not only clears your path but also builds resilience within and empowers you as you come to realise your ability to tackle adversity.

Techniques to help with this can include writing them down on a piece of paper to actually visualise them or perhaps talking them through to hear them out loud with a friend, loved one or therapist. This approach helps us to take accountability of our emotions in order to listen to the message within them. As we remove resistance, we allow them to pass and are free to witness and absorb the lessons in the process.

TIP: Identify your problem by answering WHAT is coming up for you emotionally.

2. Honest Reflection

Why do I feel this way?

Working through the roots of your feelings you will begin to understand which traumas you need to pay more attention to unravelling in order to have better internal balance and stability. Identifying these traumas with openness and honesty is the only way to tackle them; maintaining a narrative of denial will keep your triggers buried until they’re inevitably called to resurface again at a later point.

TIP: Approach yourself with an honest WHY… WHY did this happen? WHY do you feel this way – WHY were you triggered? WHY did you lose control? These questions will help to identify what’s getting in your way so that you can work around them in step 3.

3. Pragmatic Approach

How can I improve this situation?

Now you have identified the cause of your rising emotions, you can work out how best to navigate around them. Knowing your obstacles can be more important than knowing your path as identifying what is blocking you will prepare you to find necessary solutions. First establish which of your blockages come from a basis of fear and which come from real risk. Fear is a projection whereas risk is calculated based on facts. Working out what the actual risks are will help you to mitigate them and through honest reflection, dissecting your fears as mere projections will mean that neither fear nor risk remain as obstacles. Make sure you take some time to think about where you want to be and what you want to achieve. With this clarity, build yourself a realistic and manageable route around your problem(s).

TIP: Approach with HOW: ‘HOW can I improve this situation?’ When dealing with fear, guilt or shame we must use our accountability to drive us forward into positive resolve. Write all your ideas as a list so that you can easily work your way through until you find the best and most effective approach.

4. Positive Progress

I have and I am…

After coming to terms with your emotions and seeing opportunities to excel past your blockages, the final step is to put your intentions into action. Implement the lessons you’ve learned from the previous steps into your reality by taking your list of your intentions that you wrote in step 3 and tackling them one at a time. I recommend making a detailed to-do list so your tasks seem more manageable and less overwhelming – cross each item off as you complete it for satisfaction and recognition that helps to keep you motivated.

TIP: Partner this practice with positive affirmations which keep you focused, learning and help to build self-confidence. Here are some examples: ‘I HAVE ALL THE TOOLS I NEED TO ….’ or ‘I AM IMPROVING ON … EVERYDAY’

So there you have it, a short and easy step-by-step guide to help you understand, rationalise and overcome your fears so that you can use them to your advantage. I hope it helps!

Love, Han x

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Dzukou Valley: A Nagaland Must See

Nagaland as a whole was a place that charmed me beyond words, but Dzukou Valley is a place that is extra special and a must visit if you’re in the region!

When I was bumping up the horrific, rocky roads into Kohima, I met Akung, a sweet 20 year old Naga guy who was holding a large newspaper package. I asked him to take my photo and we got chatting. I told him about my plan to visit Dzukou Valley in the morning and even though he was meant to be catching the bus to return to his village for college the next day, he said he’d love to come with me and him and his friend could be my guide. In the next breath he told me that the package was full of weed and then I was down – you can always trust you’ll laugh with a stoner eh?!

Which Route?

You have two options, Jakhama (Zakhama on Google Maps) and Viswema. Jakhama is the more challenging approach being a steep climb up natural steps through overgrown, organic jungle and Viswema is 12kms longer but far easier with a 1 hour steepish uphill then a very gradual incline through grass and flowers. Most people approach from Viswema and descend out of Jakhama. My journey details the other way around.

If you are fit and used to hiking, I would recommend my route – the beautiful overgrown jungle is worth it and it makes for a nice, easy walk out of the valley when you leave. I also have problems with my knees (especially on steep declines) so descending Viswema was much more comfortable. Ascending Viswema is manageable even for a novice or untrained hiker.

How long it takes to reach the valley

I’d heard that Jakhama could take between 5-7 hours but it took us 4 and we were not rushing at all with many breaks. It is worth noting that I was trekking during winter which is very dry, the same route during high season would definitely take longer.

There is a long road to the entrance of the Viswema route which takes around 2 hours to walk or 40 minutes to drive. from there, the walk takes around 3-4 hours.

How to get there

Most people start their trip in Kohima although some stay in the homestays in the villages. Either way, you can jump in a Sumo (local shared jeep taxi) for a cheap price (around 50 rupees I heard) although I prefer hitchhiking and Naga culture is amongst the friendliest on the planet so it’s extremely easy to find a ride.

If you are climbing from Jakhama, the path starts at the big sign just off the road – any taxi or local will know where to drop you. If you are starting at Viswema, you will need a lift or a taxi to take you up to the start of the path. This can be arranged from the starting point in Viswema town where most people pick up their guide.

Kohima to Jakhama starting point is about 20kms. Kohima to Viswema starting point is about 27kms.

Dzukou Valley entrance from Jakhama Village

Do you need a guide?

In my opinion, not really, despite the locals telling you otherwise. The route is clear and well signposted, especially from Viswema side, although I was trekking during winter season where there is far less rain to confuse the path. If you are a nervous person when alone in nature but would like to ascend from Jakhama side, maybe I would recommend a guide. I was told that they charge around 1500 rupees per day which would have been way beyond my budget. During high season there will also be others walking the path so I don’t think it’s necessary – your call!

When to visit

High season to visit Dzukou Valley is May to September when the valley is in full bloom because of the monsoon rain. Expect hot, wet weather and take clothes accordingly.

Winter season, November to March, is dry and very cold but still beautiful. The valley gets busy at the end of Novermber/start of December because of the infamous Hornbill Festival that takes place from 1st to 10th December in Kisama Heritage Village falling between Jakhama and Kohima. If you are trekking at this time make sure you take a lot of good, warm clothing and a sleeping bag for comfort. The winds are blisteringly cold and sometimes the guesthouse can fall short of blankets depending on how many people there are.

The guesthouse

If you can get a local to contact the guesthouse in advance, especially in winter, to check there are people there. I was rushing and didn’t do this, but it was around the Hornbill period, so I wasn’t too concerned.

You can camp with your own equipment (although you are still charged a fee – I believe 800 rupees) or rent camping gear there (I think for around 2000).

You can also stay inside the ‘dorm rooms’ (large empty rooms, one with a concrete floor, the other with a wooden floor) which cost 50 rupees per person. Then you pay extra for each blanket (small 50 rupees, large 100 rupees) and 50 for a mat. There are two dorm rooms which can sleep up to 40 people. I recommend at least two blankets during winter – it is COLD!

There are also private rooms which cost 1200 rupees per night and have a bed inside. These are apparently booked out in high season. In my opinion, not worth the money.

Food

Food at the guesthouse is 200 rupees per (very large and tasty) plate of rice, dal and fried potatoes for dinner. Seconds are usually available. I think this is a very fair price especially considering they have to carry everything up there to provide this service for you.

Some snacks, like Maggie, are available at a slightly inflated price but as a vegan, zero waste traveller, there was nothing available for me.

I would recommend packing your own snacks/meal for your journey up and down anyway. There is nothing available to buy en route.

It is possible to hire cooking equipment at the guesthouse but you also have to pay for firewood and I don’t think it’s worth it because it works out expensive and you have to carry your own raw materials.

Can you tackle it in a day?

Yes. Either route, yes, if you leave early enough but I wouldn’t recommend it. The place is so beautiful, I felt deprived with just one night there. I’d recommend staying at least one night but two or three would be much better.

Mobile signal

For the majority of the time you will be entirely disconnected until you reach the peak of Jakhama trail or the point where you emerge into the valley near the guesthouse from Viswema side. Even then the signal is weak but can be strong enough to send a message to your taxi driver (if you have one) or homestay if you decide to change your plans and stay for longer.

Our experience

After chatting with Akung, we’d planned to meet early, to take our time and get the most out of the day so I met them at their place at 7am. We’d opted to ascend the Jakhama route and took a taxi to the starting point.

The start of the Dzukou Valley trek (Jakhama route) until you reach the rainforest

The start of the walk was up a rocky trail until we reached the start of the jungle – all very straight forward and not challenging to find the route. Then we entered into the beautiful rainforest path up steep natural rock steps across river beds, over boulders and through breathtaking filigree.

Walking with the boys, who had visited before, I didn’t have to think about the route but the path did seem very clear and obvious. Saying that, we were trekking during dry season (end of November) so the paths were not muddy.

Despite the incline being steep and challenging, it wasn’t as tough as I had anticipated and if you are an avid hiker, I would definitely recommend the Jakhama route; the jungle landscape is breathtaking and I can only imagine its beauty during full bloom in rainy season.

  • About to reach Dzukou Valley from the steep Jakhama ascent

The journey was consistently up steps the whole way until we reached the peak when we had this spectacular moment of breaking through the dense jungle and emerging into the most beautiful panoramic view of the rolling green valley hills and bold, picturesque mountains. Just as we were about to reach the top, we bumped into a western traveller, Sebastian. He told us we were about 10 minutes away and we convinced him to turn round and chill for another night with us.

From the epic viewpoint, it was another 20 minutes or so to walk to the guesthouse down a leisurely path cut into the bamboo grassland that covered all the valley walls – just incredible. Our total journey took around 4 hours and that was with a lot of chill and food stops along the way.

Once we’d arrived, we met some of the other travellers there and got acquainted then walked up to another viewpoint (which is better for sunrise) that overlooks the valley and the surrounding mountains. It’s quite steep to get up there so take care especially when coming back down.

As we returned a lot more travellers had arrived and Der, the main guy running the place, came over to talk to me about blankets because they were running out. Luckily, he pulled some together for us but they were limited and it would have been more ideal to have extra.

As it was winter time sunset was early but wow, seriously amazing as the perfectly clear blue sky became filled with the brightest and boldest pinks, purples, yellows and oranges. I wished in that moment, wrapped up from the chilling winds that I’d brought my fire toys with me but I gave a short LED poi performance for everyone there as we eagerly waited for dinner.

Sunset from the guesthouse at Dzukou Valley

The temperature dropped rapidly and firewood heaters were available to rent to keep warm. We huddled close as we filled our hungry bellies with hearty portions of rice, dal and fried potatoes. The buzzy atmosphere died down early as everyone was tired and because of the cold weather, everyone retreated into hiding before 9:30pm.

I woke up in the middle of the night and took a brave walk outside to admire the stars. Honestly, it was the most mindblowingly beautiful display I have ever seen. The rich, deep navy quite literally sparkled from what looked like thousands of diamonds scattered in every direction. I took some time to feel the silence and soak in the pure bliss and peace that I felt in that moment, enjoying the natural glow that illuminated the stunning nature that surrounded me.

Waking up at sunrise was too chilling for me. Absolutely freezing I did not want to go back up to the viewpoint I’d already visited the day before as I was freezing then, so I decided to stay in the warm and have a chilled morning. Some people went down to the valley to experience the frost, but being from England, this was nothing new and didn’t entice me into unwrapping from my swaddles of blankets. Instead, I spent my morning drawing and painting, meditating, enjoying and just existing – appreciating the magnificence of our Mother Nature and wholeheartedly channelling my gratitude for such a beautiful experience.

  • Friends from the valley
  • Sunrise at Dzukou Valley

After lunch, we said our goodbyes to our new friends and started our descent down the Viswema route knowing that we didn’t have a lift to the town at the other end. Unconcerned, we took our day slowly and wanted to enjoy the valley for as long as possible. The viewpoint on the way down was also incredible although missed the wow factor like what we’d felt when we emerged from the jungle on the way up – still phenomenal.

  • Off route exploring in Dzukou Valley
  • Dzukou Valley viewpoint (Viswema route)

It made me really sad to see so much rubbish on the way up and down the trek so we decided to rescue some plastic bottles and stuff them full of unrecyclable plastic in an attempt to remove as much from nature as possible. If you’re walking this way, it’s a super easy method for making a small difference – take up the #BottleIt challenge too!

For more tips on how to adopt more eco friendly travel habits, check out my blog on how to embrace zero waste living whilst travelling.

When we arrived at the bottom, there were some drivers waiting for other trekkers but we decided to get moving in case we had to walk the whole way back to town. After a short time we easily hitchhiked a lift to the starting point and I hitched another ride back to Kohima within 1 minute of being on the road. A smooth ending to the most wonderful trip.

The Dzukou Valley starting point from Viswema side

Nagaland is the 6th most ecologically diverse region in the world and Dzukou Valley blew my mind. I’d love to return again during rainy season when the flowers are in full bloom.

If you’re still trying to decide on whether or not you’d like to visit Dzukou Valley, make sure you check out my video for a little bit of extra inspo!

Happy trekking everyone! 🙂

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What a welcome! Riding from Kawkareik to Hpa-An

My first full day in Myanmar was certainly that – FULL. 104kms of an emotional, beautiful and bumpy-as-hell journey. I finally got my early start in with a 4:45am alarm that I snoozed until 5:30. Up, ready and out to the morning market for fruit stocking and breakfast before my (expected to be) 90km day. Had a spectacular breakfast of a handful of everything a lady had in front of her, mushed and mixed together with an onion bhaji type of thing and a miniature orange sweet curry bowl. My vegan note from Su Su had worked a charm and everyone around me was fascinated and amused with my food ordering encounter. This got me even more excited for all the food I’d be continuing to eat! 

Stopped less than a kilometre out of the town, an immigration officer took down my details. He said he liked the premier league and laughed at my reaction when I told him that Arsenal were ‘no good’! The road was horrendous. Like giant moon craters covered in jagged rocks and the occasional bit of mud. This lasted for the first 50kms of the journey. Luckily, I was still experiencing a sensory overload of Burmese magic and digesting the dramatic changes from what seemed to be futuristic Thailand in comparison. 

People here are so friendly and everything is beautiful. Overgrown and raw. Even the trees have untamed life growing all over their roots and bark – it’s amazing. 

The hills together with the road conditions made the journey tough but my excitement for being here and because I actually managed to leave early this morning meant that I didn’t feel pressured or rushed to move at super-speed! I took a rest and ate my pomelo in the shade followed by a brief friendly encounter with a local I couldn’t communicate with. Burmese is HARD. People told me they speak English – they don’t! 

I passed a man leading up to a tough hill…he was on a bike too. He overtook me then walked his bike when he couldn’t pedal anymore. When I reached the top we smiled a celebrated together. I shared a spare dragonfruit with him and we took a moment to rest whilst appreciating each other. He let me take a photo of us and our bikes. He was a cool guy – grey and black hair, longer than mine, and fabulous multicoloured clothes. I really enjoyed that moment. 

After that I went up to the monastery that Su Su had recommended for lunch. The hill was crazily steep and I cycled half then walked up the stairs for the rest. Cycling would have probably been easier! A monk showed me around up to the pagoda where the view was incredible. Green land for miles. He seemed so proud which was also really humbling to see. I felt overwhelmed with love and joy. 

Back to the bike to pedal the other 50kms to Hpa-An and I hoped the road improved which thank God, it did. And so did the scenery. Wow, the afternoon was to die for! Passing by giant limestone cliffs lined with countless plants all beautifully overgrown…even the tree trunks were bursting with life from every angle! Stunning. 

I made it just in time to my last recommended stop, the pagoda on a lake, for sunset, which was beautiful. Enjoying the sunset there meant I cycled the last 12kms in the dark to the town but it was worth it and I arrived proud, exhausted and delighted with my crazy and fun-filled day getting just one tiny insight into what the next weeks had in store for me.  

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The perfect ending to my time in Thailand

When I left Bangkok 9 days ago, I saw my journey to Mae Sot purely as my route to Myanmar. The reality was that it became my favourite part of cycling Thailand; not only because the views and roads were beyond stunning, but because I was fully integrated in Thai culture, hosted, fed and thoroughly looked after every single day. 

I started the trip with a strong 112km stretch to stay with Aurelio, a lovely Swiss Warmshowers host that I’d organised staying with before leaving the city. He lived in a small country town called Tha Muang in Kanchanaburi. Even though it was all flat, going straight back into a 112km day after a long break can be tough, especially when you’re tackling strong headwinds for 45km of your journey. I arrived late (obviously, because I’m useless at ever leaving early!!) following a loving goodbye to Jodie. Despite feeling tired and beaten from the relentless wind, I was rewarded with a spectacular sunset when arriving into Aurelio’s charming rural village. Relieved to have finally made it and welcomed with open arms, my journey towards Myanmar had officially begun and that felt amazing. 

I showered and changed then we shared wonderful cycle stories over dinner. Years ago, Aurelio cycled from Thailand to Switzerland so needless to say, we had lots to talk about. When morning arrived, he helped me clean my bike, tighten my bearings and made sure I was well fed and rested before wishing me well on my way north. In fact, saying goodbye to Aurelio late (again, haha) meant that I missed my next target of an organic farmstay campsite about 115km away which overlooked a beautiful lake. Although I was momentarily disappointed, I trusted that I was where I needed to be. This led to a perfect new sequence of events that made this journey as epic as it revealed itself to be… 

  • A beautiful reservoir en route to Kanchanaburi
  • My wonderful Warmshowers host, Aurelio
  • Sunset arriving into Tha Muang, Kanchanaburi

I took the tiny dirt track roads through the sugar cane plantations which honestly blew my mind. Being surrounded by thriving nature on rustic, bumpy trails with not a soul around made it impossible to not feel deep love for life and gratitude for every moment. I started to search for a camping spot down the back roads where I asked locals if they knew of anywhere. Instead, I was invited to a loving family home where I was made the feast of a lifetime with my favourite vegetable – pumpkin! I really loved my time with this family because they were all so present – no phones and fully engaged with me and each other. This might seem like a strange comment, but really, phones and technology have taken over the world so much, even in rural Asia, people are still spending hours upon hours scrolling through Facebook. 

My wonderful hosts in Nong Plong, Kanchanaburi

The next day I was bursting with joy and enthusiasm having recharged from my heart warming encounter the night before and full of delicious and nutritious vegan food. Winding through the never-ending green-lands, the day passed quickly and I started thinking about where I would find somewhere to sleep down the small country lane. 

It was about 5pm when I passed a school. I rolled in and asked a lady if she knew of somewhere I could put my tent. They opened the old medical room which had a bed, fans and a bathroom. I offered to guest teach a fun and interactive lesson in the morning as a thank you. Little did I know that they’d organise an assembly to the entire school of 600 children followed by a lesson for two grades of children (aged about 7-10)! It was brilliant and I had the best time helping such smart, respectful and sweet children. 

Late on the road following the class (again!), I cycled with pure glee all day just basking in the perfection of every direction I turned. Cycling through rolling hills gave new dynamics to the already outstanding scenery. Layers upon layers of deep greens lined in the distance with majestic mountains along the Thai-Burmese border. 

Cruising along to the slowly setting sun, my mood was sky high as I passed a town called Khlong Chani. I heard a friendly “Hello!” from a group of people and thought I’d ask about where I could camp as the area was so beautiful. 

I spoke with a friendly couple, Aor and Mangkhol, who spoke some English and they invited me to stay with them. The whole family and village welcomed me and I went to bed with a huge smile on my face! 

I offered a melon and a pineapple as a thank you but ended up leaving the next day with a lucky buddha charm, three bunches of bananas, a bunch of longans, a watermelon, some sweet potato fries and a (paper) bag of caramelised peanuts! We also shared a very special morning where we ate breakfast together following prayers at their local temple as it was ‘Buddha Day’. 

  • Arriving in Khlong Chani
  • Making offerings
  • Breakfast at the temple
  • Aor, Mangkhol and family, my hosts in Khlong Chani, Uthai Thani

Onwards and upwards from there as I needed to cover some ground to reach Mae Sot in time before my visa expired. It rained a little bit that day which literally dampened my mood and together with severe bum chafing (I know, ew, gross!) was distracting to say the least! Just as I was feeling a bit sorry for myself, the beaming sun broke through the clouds just as I reached the most incredible stretch of road. I reminded myself how lucky I was speeding down the country lanes to the heart warming sounds of magical natural life all around me. 

Bumping along the rocky side roads had caused me to break a spoke which I stopped to take a look at. A woman on a motorbike pulled up alongside me and asked if I was okay. Her name was Ploy and she was visiting her home town from Bangkok. She invited me to stay at her home and even though I’d wanted to cover another 20km or so, it felt like a sign so I agreed with a smile and I followed her  down the road to her beautiful house. 

  • Blessing & building the new Buddha
  • Ploy, her mother and her beautiful daughter Nessa, my hosts in Baan Tha Magood

That evening was also a special one as they were holding a ceremony that evening to start building the base of a new Buddha at the local temple. So I visited two temples in one day and got to witness and take part in the prayers and blessings that meant so much to this loving and friendly community. 

Another lovely host meant another late start but oh my God was I rewarded when I ventured (struggled!) down an impossible sandy track which brought me to a gorgeous rubber plantation. 

I hadn’t been riding long but I just had to stop. There was a mesh hammock set up with my name on it and the shade summoned me away from the heat of the glaring sun. I cracked open the watermelon and basked in my moment of bliss. 

Tougher spots to have a watermelon break…

My next stop was in search for food when I was given heaps of barbecued bananas for free. It kept me going and the break made me realise how much time was getting on and that I needed to make progress fast. I picked up the pace and transitioned into fat-burning-workout-mode. Arriving into a small village at a beautiful sunset gave me incentive to find somewhere to sleep fast. 

A policeman offered to take me to a beautiful spot he knew by the river with some friends who owned a lodge on the outskirts of the national park. He said it was 1km away but we ended up going on a 45 minute detour into the dark down a rocky and sandy single track. I remember thinking, ‘where the hell was he taking me?!’

But it was worth it. It was pitch black when I got there and the family helped me to get set up fast. By the time I was done and showered, food was on the table waiting. An amazing beansprout and tomato dish and… wait for it… VEGAN BANANA CAKES! I had hit the jackpot! 

We spent some time together whilst I helped the son practice his English then I went to bed more than content and full of gratitude. 

Waking up next to the river was amazing. So many forms of life buzzing around you and the young sun glimmering off the water. Having breakfast with that view would be an incentive for anyone to get up and seize the day. 

  • My lovely hosts next to Khlong Wang Chao National Park

After our photoshoot and loving goodbyes, the daughter gave me a pair of trousers as a gift which I graciously accepted. Back on the road and my early start saw me cover good ground before the heat slowed me down. Stopping to fill up some water around 11am, I was convinced into staying for lunch by some friendly local farmers. They bought me lunch and gave me some custard apples to take on my way. 

Scenes changed to bight green rice fields and even though I’d planned to stay at the campsite at the top of the mountain on the way to Mae Sot, I took a wrong turn down an awful road which made me too late. Trusting the process, I didn’t get mad and stopped the near side of the mountain where yet another kind family took me in. 

Not only that, but they provided me with the most outstanding view I could have ever wished for! Porn, the mother, led me down to a wooden platform at the bottom of their garden which overlooked about 10 stunning rice fields. 

I showered and shared dinner with charming daughters, both glowing with their cute smiles, bubbly personalities and heavily pregnant bellies. I felt like the crazy, foreign auntie to be. 

  • Porn’s lovely family, hosting me in Tak Province, before I tackled the mountain to Mae Sot!

Sunrise was beautiful and started my day perfectly. Getting on the road early was a must because I knew I needed to take my time being a little out of practice with significant climbs. 

I remembered the struggle of battling sweat dripping uncontrollably into my eyes as I slowly climbed the (what felt like) giant task ahead of me. 

Somehow, in the middle of the mountain, there was an ice cream man (which felt like a mirage lol). Unfortunately, I couldn’t find an option that had no milk and no plastic so after a moment of feeling sorry for myself, I pulled my chin up and got back to the task of conquering the peak. 

I reached the top around lunchtime and it was insanely hot. A well deserved lunch which was bought for me by a friendly lady at the top after she took a keen interest in my trip. I was becoming a magnet for kindness and it was genuinely overwhelming. Overwhelming and simply beautiful. 

  • From my tent at sunrise
  • The final leg!
  • My lunch company 🙂
  • Mountain views…

The second and smaller peak of the day felt more challenging. Passing through noisy, dusty and inconvenient construction works left me with an inevitable flat tyre. I got to changing it whilst hiding in the small amount of shade provided by a worker truck and got back to the task. I wanted to make it to Mae Sot to get to a bike shop as I seemed to have a small issue with my wheel which I wanted to check before crossing to Myanmar. 

The final incline pushed me and my enthusiasm but the spectacular decline at sunset quickly reminded me why I love mountains so much. I flew. Soaring at 65km/h and really feeling every bit of emotion I was capable of; grateful for my physical ability and grateful for my presence in such a breathtaking setting. Descending into Mae Sot made me emotional as I reflected thankfully on what the past eight days had brought me.

Picking all the sharp bits out of my tyre earlier in the day had slowed me down, meaning I arrived late by the time I reached the hostel. Luckily, Tua, the owner of Sleep Nest Hostel, was there and drove me all over town trying to find a place as I had to leave the next morning when my visa expired. 

We didn’t find anywhere that night but after speaking for a while, he sponsored my accommodation, made dinner for me with his friend, Chai, and instantly became a friend. 

I fell in love with the guys and their kind hearts which made me want to help them, too. So I overstayed my visa by a day (this costs 500 Baht by the way) to share some art and help Tua with the hostel. It was special because everyone staying there got involved with some drawing, too, and we ended up having a bit of a creative social for my last night in Thailand. 

The perfect end of my time in a fantastic country. A chapter full of love, epic food, unforgettable experiences and unparalleled hospitality. 

Until next time. 

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Why I strive to live consciously and plastic free

Plastic pollution and global warming are serious international problems that affect us all and it is imperative that we start to prioritise protecting our environment over our own convenience. 

Having spent so much time in Asia, where, according to National Geographic, 50% of all plastic is made, I have seen the heartbreaking effects first hand (demonstrated in the photo above) and it compelled me to make some drastic changes. 

Over time, I have been able to alter my living to being 99% plastic free. I say 99% because being vegan and travelling by bicycle means that sometimes, very occasionally, I have to buy things like rice, nuts or noodles from a market so that I don’t starve in remote places (I know, totally unacceptable!). And sometimes, no matter how thoroughly I explain that I don’t want plastic using English, the local language and through showing my plastic free container/solution, I still end up with plastic!

Don’t get me wrong, it is challenging; I don’t enjoy being the ‘difficult one’ that confuses or even unintentionally upsets the local vendor or shop assistant (because they think they’ve done something wrong) but I have to be because even though that sole interaction won’t change their view, when the next five or ten or fifty people also make the same firm requests and show they’re unhappy to be served a plastic bag or a plastic straw then maybe they will start to rethink what they’re serving their customers and WHY. This domino effect will eventually reach the global conglomerates that really have the ability to alter the market and make a wider difference. 

Near the peak of Kasi Mountain, Laos

Here are some shocking facts for you:

❗️Every single day 8 million pieces of plastic find their way into our oceans.

❗️100,000 marine mammals and turtles and 1 million sea birds are killed by marine plastic pollution annually.

❗️Did you know that it takes 2,400 gallons of water to produce 1 pound (0.45kg) of meat?! By abstaining from eating just 1 pound of meat, you’d save more water than if you didn’t shower for six months. 

❗️You eat thousands of bits of plastic every year – it is estimated that we may be consuming between 39,000 and 52,000 microplastic particles per year by consuming products such as seafood, sugars, salt and beer. It’s even in our water. You can read this in more detail here.

❗️There is more micro plastic in the ocean than there are stars in the Milky Way.

(I have also listed some additional shocking statistics at the bottom of this article for those that would like to read more.)

It can be challenging to make the switch over to a plastic free lifestyle but the reality is that once you get going, it’s actually pretty simple. By committing to doing this, you will contribute to changing the patterns of consumerism which can pressurise the ‘big fish’ to make significant changes too. 

Read my guide about how to embrace zero waste living whilst travelling including details of my plastic free kit and best environmental travel tips for information and inspiration on adopting an eco-friendly lifestyle. 

Otherwise, thank you for reading. Please do help to share and spread the word as far and wide as possible. 

The time to act is now. 

Be sure to check out one of the amazing charities that I’m cycling and fundraising for, Friends of the Earth, for extra help, advice and news on how we can come together to save this planet.

Peace✌🏼 

More shocking stats:

❗️Less than one fifth of all plastic waste is recycled globally.

❗️Microplastics have now been found embedded in Artic Ice.

❗️About 8% of the world’s oil production is used to make plastic and power the manufacturing of it. That figure is projected to rise to 20% by 2050. 

❗️Every six seconds, an acre of rainforest is cut down for cattle farming – that’s around 14,400 acres every single day. If you haven’t already heard the heartbreaking news that’s going on right now in the Amazon (the rainforest that produces 20% of Earth’s oxygen), mass areas are being cleared and burned intentionally for animal agriculture. You can read about it here.

❗️Plastic pollution can now be found on every single beach in the world, inhabited or not.

REFERENCES:

https://www.peta.org/features/meat-climate-change/

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/news/2018/05/plastics-facts-infographics-ocean-pollution/

https://www.sas.org.uk/our-work/plastic-pollution/plastic-pollution-facts-figures/