An emotional goodbye to Indie!

Yesterday I shared my last day riding with Indie after an entire month šŸ‘Æā€

There are few people that I know that are as brave, resilient, hard-working, genuine and kind-hearted as her. As soon as I met her ten months ago I knew she was special, but by living in each othersā€™ pockets, Iā€™ve been blessed with the opportunity to get to know her on a far deeper level. Let me tell you a few things about this special young lady who has become like a little sister to meā€¦

At just 18 years old, she decided she was going to spend a year abroad and this is how she spent it:

She travelled through Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand, worked a ski season in France, took a cookery course, raced sailboats in Wales, worked in a care home to save money to travel more, has just cycled through Thailand with me and is now off to climb Kilimanjaro ā›°

This young woman is a superhero in the making and I am honoured to know her šŸ™šŸ¼

We have laughed and cried together and shared some of the most phenomenal and memorable experiences. 

She is ridiculously clumsy, frustratingly inquisitive and beyond all, undeniably loveable šŸ„°

Indie, I miss you already and you havenā€™t even landed home yet. 

I will miss waking up to you passed out cold every morning no matter how loud I am. 

My days wonā€™t be complete without watching you fall over, drop whatever youā€™re holding and of course, break absolutely everything!!! 

How will I cope with travelling without you; someone whoā€™s as passionate about food as I am and will eat two meals alongside me with no judgement then confidently split 3kg of mangosteens?! šŸ˜‹ 

Whoā€™s going to fill the water bottles, lock the bikes and most of all, carry the bag?! šŸ˜‚

How can I possibly manage without my own personal photographer that also transforms into the worldā€™s most entertaining and awkward and goofy model?! šŸ“ø

And who is going to literally drive me crazy asking me the most ridiculous questions ALL DAY LONG like ā€œwhatā€™s your favourite vegetable?ā€ šŸ†šŸ„¦šŸ…

Iā€™ll miss teaching you Thai and laughing when you tell someone ā€œgoodnightā€ with so much enthusiasm when you actually meant ā€œitā€™s tastyā€ šŸ¤¦šŸ½ā€ā™€ļøšŸ¤£

Iā€™ll miss laughing at us drowning instead of surfing, painting Sianā€™s bar, couples massages on the beach, you (reluctantly) rubbing tiger balm on my legs, our 24 hour unintentional Cambodia excursion, meeting countless weirdos, eating our body weight in mango sticky rice and even all the disasters including our crash, your three flat tyres and when I got to cycle for the both of us pulling you home from the waterfall in Khao Yai! šŸš“šŸ½ā€ā™€ļøšŸš“šŸ½ā€ā™€ļø

Iā€™ll never forget how much youā€™ve made me smile and thereā€™s now an Indie shaped stamp on my heart forever ā™„ļø

To top it all off, to know that travelling with me has made some kind of impression on your daily habits including living pretty much zero waste AND eating way less meat means more than you could ever imagine šŸŒ±

I am so proud of you; all that you are and all that you have already achieved. I know you will continue on to become even more successful and please make sure you donā€™t forget to share it with me! 

So yeah, Iā€™ll miss you, little sis! Spread your infectious giggle on your own journey, because itā€™s going to be a special one! šŸ˜˜

Me and you are proof of how travelling, engaging with and seeking out new cultures and experiences make you more well-rounded peopleā€¦

Who knew that a vegan and a pig farmerā€™s daughter could become like family šŸ’ššŸ·šŸŒ±

Why I strive to live consciously and plastic free

Plastic pollution and global warming are serious international problems that affect us all and it is imperative that we start to prioritise protecting our environment over our own convenience. 

Having spent so much time in Asia, where, according to National Geographic, 50% of all plastic is made, I have seen the heartbreaking effects first hand (demonstrated in the photo above) and it compelled me to make some drastic changes. 

Over time, I have been able to alter my living to being 99% plastic free. I say 99% because being vegan and travelling by bicycle means that sometimes, very occasionally, I have to buy things like rice, nuts or noodles from a market so that I donā€™t starve in remote places (I know, totally unacceptable!). And sometimes, no matter how thoroughly I explain that I donā€™t want plastic using English, the local language and through showing my plastic free container/solution, I still end up with plastic!

Donā€™t get me wrong, it is challenging; I donā€™t enjoy being the ā€˜difficult oneā€™ that confuses or even unintentionally upsets the local vendor or shop assistant (because they think theyā€™ve done something wrong) but I have to be because even though that sole interaction wonā€™t change their view, when the next five or ten or fifty people also make the same firm requests and show theyā€™re unhappy to be served a plastic bag or a plastic straw then maybe they will start to rethink what theyā€™re serving their customers and WHY. This domino effect will eventually reach the global conglomerates that really have the ability to alter the market and make a wider difference. 

Near the peak of Kasi Mountain, Laos

Here are some shocking facts for you:

ā—ļøEvery single day 8 million pieces of plastic find their way into our oceans.

ā—ļø100,000 marine mammals and turtles and 1 million sea birds are killed by marine plastic pollution annually.

ā—ļøDid you know that it takes 2,400 gallons of water to produce 1 pound (0.45kg) of meat?! By abstaining from eating just 1 pound of meat, youā€™d save more water than if you didnā€™t shower for six months

ā—ļøYou eat thousands of bits of plastic every year – it is estimated that we may be consuming between 39,000 and 52,000 microplastic particles per year by consuming products such as seafood, sugars, salt and beer. Itā€™s even in our water. You can read this in more detail here.

ā—ļøThere is more micro plastic in the ocean than there are stars in the Milky Way.

(I have also listed some additional shocking statistics at the bottom of this article for those that would like to read more.)

It can be challenging to make the switch over to a plastic free lifestyle but the reality is that once you get going, itā€™s actually pretty simple. By committing to doing this, you will contribute to changing the patterns of consumerism which can pressurise the ā€˜big fishā€™ to make significant changes too.Ā 

Read my guide about how to embrace zero waste living whilst travelling including details of my plastic free kit and best environmental travel tips for information and inspiration on adopting an eco-friendly lifestyle. 

Otherwise, thank you for reading. Please do help to share and spread the word as far and wide as possible. 

The time to act is now

Be sure to check out one of the amazing charities that I’m cycling and fundraising for, Friends of the Earth, for extra help, advice and news on how we can come together to save this planet.

PeaceāœŒšŸ¼Ā 

More shocking stats:

ā—ļøLess than one fifth of all plastic waste is recycled globally.

ā—ļøMicroplastics have now been found embedded in Artic Ice.

ā—ļøAbout 8% of the worldā€™s oil production is used to make plastic and power the manufacturing of it. That figure is projected to rise to 20% by 2050. 

ā—ļøEvery six seconds, an acre of rainforest is cut down for cattle farming – thatā€™s around 14,400 acres every single day. If you havenā€™t already heard the heartbreaking news thatā€™s going on right now in the Amazon (the rainforest that produces 20% of Earthā€™s oxygen), mass areas are being cleared and burned intentionally for animal agriculture. You can read about it here.

ā—ļøPlastic pollution can now be found on every single beach in the world, inhabited or not.

REFERENCES:

https://www.peta.org/features/meat-climate-change/

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/news/2018/05/plastics-facts-infographics-ocean-pollution/

https://www.sas.org.uk/our-work/plastic-pollution/plastic-pollution-facts-figures/

10 Things I’ve Learnt as a Brand New Cycle Tourist

So it’s been a little while now in since I put my life on a bike and started cycle touring and wow, Iā€™ve learnt a lot!Ā 

Firstly, the Vietnamese were NOT expecting to see me! Whether itā€™s because Iā€™m Western in extremely remote areas, female, a solo cyclist or all of the above, they looked at me as though I was riding a bear, not a bike!

And besides the obvious like how to diagnose and fix things on my bike, Iā€™ve also found out a number of things, some of which have completely reshaped my style of travel. 

Check out my list below; if youā€™re thinking about getting on your bike for a long trip, it could help you with what to expect when making that first step! If biking isnā€™t for you, feel free to chuckle at my expense! 

1. Cycling in Asia is not for those with road rage

Itā€™s no secret that driving in Vietnam is (slightly) less regulated than it is in the western world and every driverā€™s best friend is their horn. Beeping (or ringing your bell) can save your life on these roads and drivers here take pride in their (ridiculously) loud and customised horns – expect a giant truck type of sounding horn on a tiny hatchback and a sunny-sounding 3 second melody on a huge petrol lorry – weird. Plus, they love to honk right next to you (most of the time when itā€™s entirely unnecessary) just to shock your heart back into beating just in case it had stopped – thoughtful! šŸ¤¦šŸ½ā€ā™€ļøšŸ˜‚ And donā€™t forget that you canā€™t get annoyed for anything on the road here, because the only rule in Vietnam is: if you donā€™t hit anyone, itā€™s okay.

2. My bum doesnā€™t hurt anywhere as much as I thought it would! EDIT – YES IT BLOODY DOES!

(Lol I had to put this one in – it started as a note Iā€™d jotted down in week 1, Iā€™d edited it in week 3 when my bum chafing was so bad I felt like I was sitting on sandpaper, not on a double padded saddle through padded cycle shorts!) – invest well in padded gear…it makes a huge difference!

Me, crying over bum chafing…

3. I thought I hated warm water until I was actually thirsty.

When your mouth is as dry as Ghandiā€™s flip flop, even the sweat from your top lip starts to taste good šŸ˜‚

4. Want to eat as much as you want and never get fat? Become a cycle tourist!

And trust me when I say that biking is not just about your legs! I have muscles in my lower back that apparently, Iā€™ve never used. (24 or 84 I started to ask myself!) Your core controls your balance, your back – your posture, your hands and arms – the distribution of your weight on the bike and your legs pedal…not forgetting the mental training keeping yourself motivated when youā€™re all alone on a 20% incline. Plus, being vegan, Iā€™ve been advised to try and put on weight whilst Iā€™m in places that I can access food more easily (as there will be times that it will become extremely difficult for me to eat) and it really is an actual chore to eat so much! If food is your god and you like being in shape, get on your bike and you can eat what you like! 

Vegan Mi Quang – one of the best dishes I’ve eaten in Vietnam (genuinely tasted exactly like chicken soup and it cost Ā£0.50!) – this was my second meal in the same sitting! Sorry not sorry…

5. The position of your seat will change your whole riding experience

It took me 5 weeks of pretty consistent cycling and countless adjustments to find a seat position that was actually comfortable for my knees, my back and my bum and allowed me to pedal efficiently. Getting professionally fitted for your bike will help massively towards preventing injury. Something like having your knees too straight or too bent can cause long term damage to your joints, ligaments and muscles so listen to your body and make as many changes as necessary! Sometimes the smallest alteration can make the biggest difference. 

6. The cycle community is amazing and bigger than you think! (And the world is super small!)

Itā€™s proof that you attract the energies youā€™re putting out – you might think it would be so unlikely to see other individuals cycling across the world, but Iā€™ve crossed paths with 4 in just over 2 months and waved to others on the road. Thereā€™s even an international WhatsApp group thatā€™s a lovely support network for all cyclists – experienced or new. Itā€™s always full so if youā€™re trying to join, you have to click the link just as someone leaves. Itā€™s the place to be for support and advice! Thank you Akmaral (who I met in Mai Chau) for sending me the link! If youā€™re a cycle tourist and want in, get in touch and I can forward it on for you ā˜ŗļø (plus of course, Iā€™d always love to chat to another cycle tourist!).

Together with Akmaral and Claire, two other super inspiring, female cyclists that I met in Mai Chau, Vietnam

7. Hard and fast is not whatā€™s best (despite what some might think! šŸ˜‰)

In the beginning I was so focused on what I ā€˜shouldā€™ be achieving that it took away from what I was doing. Now that I have all my camping equipment, I couldnā€™t be more free and Iā€™ve learnt that the experience really is in the journey. Time and statistics are things weā€™ve created to compare and compete, but when youā€™re cycle touring you become more interested in measuring your experience, not your miles.

8. The higher the mountain, the faster you get to fly

There is literally no better feeling than speeding far too fast down a mountain youā€™ve just conquered. Elevation gain was something that didnā€™t mean anything to me at the beginning except ā€˜thatā€™s gonna hurt tomorrowā€™ and now it excites and terrifies me at the same time. Every bit of pain is totally worth it. 

9. Vanity is not a trait you can possess if you are a female cyclist in Asia

(I mean, I was hardly an active hair washer anyway, but there really is no point when youā€™re guaranteed to be a sweaty mess the next day…). Saying that…Even when youā€™re sweating from every pore in your body, youā€™ve got the most unflattering padded cycling shorts imaginable on (making you look like you have a swollen cameltoe) and are bright red whilst panting frantically like an overweight middle aged man thatā€™s just walked up 8 flights of stairs, there really are still some guys that will STILL fancy you, ask for your number, want photos with you and even be inappropriate.

(Potential trigger warning: sexual harassment) Read here about a recent experience I had whilst cycling the Ho Chi Minh Trail in Vietnam. This was my first experience of seriously inappropriate sexual harassment whilst on my bike.

Note: itā€™s important to remember that stories like this are generally isolated and this one does not in any way reflect the manner of Vietnamese men in general, but instead the actions of one pervert that unfortunately crossed my path. It doesnā€™t matter if youā€™re 20,000km away from home or at the end of your road, psychos are dotted around and itā€™s important to raise awareness about how to deal with unexpected situations in order to improve confidence in solo female travel and also travel safety tips in general. 

10. Biking is the best medicine for self-care

Not only are you getting fitter every day anyway, but maintaining your 2 most valuable items become your top priority: yourself and your bike. Everything else is disposable and replaceable. When your body is the engine of your vehicle, not only do you learn how to thoroughly look after it, but you want to. Cycling all day also becomes my meditation – itā€™s so healthy to really have time alone to process your thoughts. So by cycling so far you inevitably improve both your mental AND physical health. Win, win! If youā€™re feeling like youā€™re not ready, donā€™t hesitate, just get up and go. With a decent enough level of fitness, youā€™ll be in perfect shape for most terrain within a few weeksšŸ‘ŒšŸ¼

Basically, life on a bike is tough, testing and bloody amazing! I could never have expected that I would be doing this so you can, too. The only person stopping you is YOU! 

For now, onwards and upwards! (Literally!) šŸ™ƒ

Iā€™d be interested to see what other cyclists have felt/experienced when they first started touring – Iā€™d love to hear from you! And also if youā€™re thinking about cycle touring yourself and have some questions, get in touch! Send me a message or drop it in the comments!šŸ‘‡šŸ¼

Peace and love āœŒšŸ¼ā™„ļø